So we arrived in Spain yesterday, without so much as a sign telling us we had crossed the border. The road signs change font, and suddenly everything is in Spanish. Welcome!
San Sebastian is not far over the border, but we had left early to try and make sure we could get a spot at the next campsite. There is one main campsite in San Sebastian with great bus facilities back to the town, and as such, it is in heavy demand in August. They don't take bookings, they just start checking people in as soon as people leave. We got here just after ten, and were about 5th in line – success! What a relief! We tried the day before to go to Biarritz, but all of the 6 campsites we tried were full- FAIL.
We got the bus into town and went for a wander. I found the most amazing portugese style tarts at a bakery – delicious! We stumbled across this tiny little place that was packed and very noisy – so curious, we went in. It was a seafood pintxo (tapas) place, that turns out was in the Lonely Planet guide, but we didn't know at the time. Everyone stands along the bar and the wall benches with little plates packed with seafood and beers. The edges of the floor are covered with empty mussel shells and napkins, and the noise is incredible. Everyone is talking and laughing, and the guys behind the bar are yelling orders and moving everything so quickly – it's a crazy experience. The mussels and calamari we ordered were delicious – a great find!
San Sebastian has a huge city beach that is perfect for swimming (and beautiful) as there are no waves. We spent a couple of hours there with about 5000 of our closest friends. When we arrived we took some photos, and some more when we left, and it was only afterwards we realised how busy it got.
All that sunshine works up a thirst, so we went to one of the bars around the Plaza de la Constitucion and relaxed with some drinks. Ross managed to write a couple of postcards while I read my book. A great way to spend an afternoon, and one of the things I always wished I was doing when I was sitting at work. I'm very lucky to now have the chance to do it!
Having read about a great pintxo bar a couple of doors up from where we were, and now being hungry, we decided to try it out. Pintxo – the Basque word for tapas – are served off the bar here, creating a crazy crush of people who are all yelling and grabbing at food over your shoulders. I lined up at the bar having no idea what to do, and was handed a plate. Not knowing what anything was, other than the most obvious things, I picked a selection and made my way to the end. My plate was taken and the things that needed cooking whisked away. Ross had secured a place on one of the few barrels, and was guarding it furiously when I returned with our loot. Pretty impressive!
I think it's safe to say that it was some of the most delicious food I've ever eaten. And such a fun experience. We struck up a conversation with an English couple that were in the bar for the fourth time on their trip – a good recommendation. The lady recommended I try the young, Basque wine – apparently quite famous here – and I wasn't disappointed. It's very tangy, very pale, and slightly sparkling. They pour it from a Perrier-esque shaped bottle from about 60cm above a tumbler. I can't explain why, but I can recommend you try it if you're ever here :)
Yesterday was one of my favourite days of our trip so far, and I may never want to leave. Wine, food and beach....what's not to love?
Look at me... I'm that unenthused by work today I thought I might have a crack at reading some of your blog. Don't let that go to your head though. You came after all the online banking, news and general surfing I could think of. There’s something exponentially depressing about living vicariously though someone else’s holiday blog when you yourself* are stuck at the one place you’d least like to be. Sorry, that’s depressing.
ReplyDeleteAnd seems as though I’ve stumbled upon it at a perfect time. San Seb! One of my faves. And to be honest it hasn't come soon enough. I couldn’t possibly read back though all the cycling-related posts. Biological weapons are on list of things I’d rather experience more that read that garb.
Warm nights drinking fresh sangria and lazy days in the Mediterranean sun that so much less aggressive than back here. Especially for us rangers. I have stiffy just thinking about it… or is that my memories of the liberal beachwear dress code.
Sounds like you’re having a fantastic time. And good on ol’ Venga Bus for only giving you the bare minimum of trouble so far. I hope she keeps chuggin’ away. And ‘rocking’;-)
Finally having the housewarming tomorrow night. Funnel, flippy cup, beer pong, goon-of-fortune and slushy machine at the ready!
* I’ve never understood whether that’s a double-superlative or not and if it is, like I think, then why it’s use so widespread.